You can even have multiple malfunctions happen at the same time. If you have multiple parts of the loaded weapon on low durability there is a higher chance that a malfunction will happen since low quality ammo can cause a bad round, and magazine / gun can cause other malfunctions. It's 70 % for all ( meaning it starts at 70 % and happens more often the lower the durability gets ). Do you gonna reduce the % to make the weapon jam, or will it stay at 70%? Also, is it the same for mags and bullets if they are under 70% and my weapon is on 100%? And is there a multiplier if all 3 are under 70%, so the weapon, the mags and the bullets? This can be mitigated a bit with a high rifle skill and weapons can be repaired with a weapon cleaning kit. ( Winchster T22 ) The bulk Winchester plated. The one that jammed was some ammo I normally only fire in my TC Contender, some un-plated, low power target stuff. 'Stove pipe' of alive round is almost always magazine related. As pistols are widely owned for self-defense purposes, you should drill to react quickly to malfunctions. Glock Limp Wrist Stovepipe, Military Arms Channel. Any semiautomatic pistol can malfunction. The gas/recoil forces the slide (top of the gun) to slide back where it ejects the spent brass casing. In these cases number one culprit is extractor or ejector. A stovepipe jam occurs when a fired casing isn't full ejected (hence the more technical name: Failure to Eject) and the slide comes forward, trapping it. It went from averaging one or two smokestack jams per magazine to the point where I experienced one jam out of 250 rounds. Need more specifics to help- to me a classic stovepipe is an empty case sticking out of the ejection port at or near 12 o clock such that it obscures the sight plane when it happens. The more durability it is missing - more often the jamming will occur. It made a dramatic difference on my particular gun. A stovepipe jam is when an EMPTY case gets caught in the ejection port, normally sticking straight up, hence they call it a 'stovepipe. After the weapon durability falls under 70 % the weapon starts to jam. Of course another's mileage may/will vary according to the whimsy of the powers that be and the phase of the moon.Originally posted by Bunny:Weapon jamming depends on the durability of the weapon and magazines ( if you're using one ). He also received a follow up call and a couple of emails to gauge his satisfaction of service rendered which I was surprised at. There was a new barrel/link with some polishing of the ramp and signs of hood fitting but the rest appeared to be the same. The pistol was returned in less than two weeks with two new mags and a no charge invoice no explanation of work done. After a lot of preaching/bitching by me he overcame his reluctance to return the pistol to Kimber for some warranty service but neglected to include the mags. I also tried his mags in two of my proven reliable 1911's and they ran perfectly. Very little improvement after 500+++rounds of varying types/mfg. It comes from the fact that the firearm that suffers a stovepipe jam very much resembles a stovepipe. We tested it out, made sure we had no limp wrist, and also used regular 230gr winchester. A stovepipe, or a stovepipe jam, is a failure to eject jam where the spent case gets lodged in the ejection port between the breech and the barrel. I took it out shooting today, taking a more experienced shooter w/ me. Advice was to keep shooting until it broke in and that he did using three new Kimber mags. I keep getting stovepipe jams, it keeps occuring more frequently. 45 a few years ago and it was plagued with random FTF/FTE from the beginning. Friend p/u a new 1911 Kimber Custom Carry. The Stove Pipe (stovepipe malfunction) is almost always a magazine issue.
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